Let’s talk about the bejeweled world’s not-so-secret secret: guys are finally getting the sparkly stuff. What was once sole territory for the heiress of the house has evolved into something far more nuanced: men embracing jewelry that would have given their grandfathers heart palpitations. The pearls! The diamonds! The – gasp – colored gemstones! The strict delineation between men’s and women’s timepieces, and now jewelry, has been gradually dissolving, revealing a landscape where self-expression transcends conventional gender norms. 

From glass cases to the red carpet

Luxury watchmakers have historically reserved their most spectacular gem-setting artistry for women’s collections. Yet recent years have witnessed a sea change, with prestigious houses applying these techniques to traditionally masculine models. In 2023, Rolex surprised us with its diamant Day-Date models, sizeable 36mm pieces featuring sparkling diamonds set along their bezels and Roman indices, framing imperfectly perfect slabs of semi-precious stones of turquoise and carnelian, and the grainy grandeur of green aventurine. Last year, the brand’s iconic Daytona models got an aesthetic upgrade in shimmering mother-of-pearl dials — a favorite example that Wei Koh has expressed he would be very inclined to wear.

Patek Philippe Ref. 7150/250R Chronograph

Patek Philippe has also embraced this evolution with timepieces such as the Ref. 7150/250R chronograph released at the 2018 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, a rose gold beauty in 38mm. Though technically classified in their women’s collection, it found favor among male collectors who appreciate its balanced proportions and exquisite craftsmanship.

Red carpet events have become showcases for this new expression of masculine adornment. At the 97th Academy Awards, actor Colman Domingo sported an 18K Canopus Gold Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch adorned with baguette-cut diamonds and a diamond-set crown. Robert Downey Jr., long a horological enthusiast, swapped his Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso staple for a bejeweled Omega Aqua Terra. And all eyes were on Jeff Goldblum’s wrist when he wore the Vacheron Constantin Egerie Moonphase in 37mm pink gold. At the 2024 MET Gala, Goldblum was spotted with a Tiffany & Co. cocktail watch, its diminutive case and diamond setting defying every convention of men’s wristwear.

At the 2024 MET Gala, Goldblum wore a black wool single breasted shawl collar tuxedo, white poplin shirt with bow detail, black double breasted wool coat, finished with black shoes

Timothée Chalamet has emerged as a particular standard-bearer, sporting vintage Cartier pieces with an effortless nonchalance that makes diamond-set jewelry seem like the most natural accessory for a young man. At the 2025 Screen Actor Guild Awards, Chalamet paired a Chrome Hearts leather suit with a decorative vintage Cartier watch transformed into a bolo tie, its former status that would have been relegated to women’s jewelry cases just years earlier.

If there were any doubts about the commercial viability of this trend, Richemont’s Q3 2024 financial report showed that the second half of 2024 showed marked improvement compared to the first half, with jewelry being the standout business segment. Richemont’s prestigious jewelry houses (Buccellati, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Vhernier) accelerated to 14% growth, particularly impressive against the already strong 12% growth in the same period last year. This success stemmed from strong performance of their iconic collections and well-received new releases, especially during the holiday season.

The new normal: Redefining the masculine identity

Luxury houses have now strategically selected ambassadors who embody this more fluid approach to adornment. Bvlgari found its perfect representative in Damiano David, the flamboyant frontman of Italian rock band Måneskin, whose penchant for wearing statement jewelry and gender-fluid fashion aligns perfectly with the brand’s bold aesthetic.

Cartier, meanwhile, has positioned itself at the vanguard of this movement with ambassadors like Jackson Wang and Timothée Chalamet, both of whom approach jewelry with a refreshing lack of self-consciousness. Boucheron has embraced Asian celebrities known for their sophisticated approach to style, including fresh-face NCT Mark, actor Xiao Zhan, and pop star Lu Han. These figures have introduced younger audiences to the possibilities of fine jewelry, particularly in markets where men’s adornment faced fewer historical prejudices.

Chalamet wore a $246,000 Panthère de Cartier necklace at the 2025 BAFTAs

While this shift may seem revolutionary, it actually represents a return to historical norms rather than a departure from them. Throughout much of human history, men of status adorned themselves liberally. From the bejeweled Maharajas of India to the diamond-festooned aristocrats of Louis XIV’s court, masculine power was often expressed through spectacular ornamentation.

Even in more recent history, men’s jewelry has flourished in specific subcultures. The Sicilian mafiosi and New York gangsters of the early 20th century were rarely seen without their signet rings and heavy gold chains — symbols of achievement and affiliation rather than mere decoration. Hip-hop pioneer Tupac Shakur to today’s Pharrell Williams elevated this tradition, the latter collaborating with jewelers like Tiffany & Co. to create pieces that celebrated success while making powerful cultural statements.

Peter Paul “Paulie Walnuts” Gualtieri and Tony Soprano. Image: Getty

Jacob Arabo (left) collaborates frequently with hip-hop artists to create custom jewelry, with Pharrell Williams (right) among his popular customers

Pharrell Williams designed the Tiffany Titan collection for Tiffany & Co.

But I reiterate: this is not about the jewelry that are loud and proud, but subtle, dainty pieces worn by the likes of our aforementioned figures. Suddenly, the desire for bling has become nuanced for men. Shirts are now casually unbuttoned to reveal Bvlgari Serpenti necklaces coiling against bare skin. Hair is thoughtfully styled to showcase Boucheron ear cuffs. Fingers once adorned only with wedding bands now display carefully considered stacks of Cartier Clash rings.

Boucheron’s Carte Blanche Ailleurs High Jewellery collection designed for men

Perhaps most significantly, these choices are increasingly normalized rather than sensationalized. What might have generated headlines five years ago now merits only appreciative nods. The question is no longer whether men should wear jewelry, but which pieces best express their personal style.

So to echo the question once more: Men, where are your jewelry? If current trends continue, the answer may soon be: everywhere, worn with confidence, selected with care, and appreciated not as gender statements but as the beautiful objects they have always been.