Is it us or has blue ceramic found its way back to watchmaking centerstage? Either way, when Chanel does it, you know something big is on the horizon. New for the fashion house at Watches and Wonders 2025 is Chanel J12 Bleu. A nine-watch collection immersed in a brand new deep blue hue so intense it is almost black.

Blue ceramic enters the Chanel J12 universe

So let’s talk about colors for a moment. Because Chanel is known for its perennial penchant for black and white. And the J12 collection was conceived based on this elegant dichotomy of black and white.

However colors do make it into the design portfolio from time to time. Whether you’re looking at Chanel’s ready-to-wear, fashion accessories, haute couture or indeed its timepieces. The only thing is, every time Chanel considers mining a specific hue for creative inspiration, the maison goes all in. And then it becomes a thing.

Recall the Chanel pink suit, immortalized by Jackie Kennedy. In the 1920s Coco Chanel was especially enamored by the color red. She featured it so prominently among her designs that fashion cognoscenti of the time coined the term ‘Chanel Red.’ Few realize it but blue has also consistently been a part of the maison’s palette.

Used in its fashion and beauty creations, blue has also distinguished the jewelry boxes of Chanel’s 1932 Bijoux de Diamants high jewelry collection.

Similarly, blue provides the inspiration board for the new Chanel J12 Bleu. And not just any off-the-shelf hue of blue, but one that has been specifically developed for the maison’s watchmaking studio.

A blue so deep it is almost black

An Exclusive In Blue Ceramic

Ceramic has been a fundamental part of the Chanel J12 identity pretty much since day one. The first J12 was introduced in 2000, featuring a case and bracelet in black high-tech ceramic. Three years later, a white high-tech ceramic version hit the market. Throughout this time, Chanel has worked with countless variations and material combinations. But never has the maison released a colored ceramic collection until now. J12 Bleu is the first.

Obviously with its ownership of G&F Châtelain, Chanel has every expertise required for ceramics R&D in the palm of its hands. Still, it took them five years to develop high-tech ceramic in that specific tone of deep blue envisioned by the Chanel Watchmaking Studio.

Says Director of the Chanel Watchmaking Studio, Arnaud Chastaingt, “I dreamt of giving a colour to black, of illuminating it with blue. The final choice of this particular blue was like an epiphany. I wanted a blue that has a rigorous elegance, a blue that is nearly black or a black that is nearly blue”.

Matte finished on the surfaces, polished on the sides

So the J12 Bleu exudes a deep, matte and velvety beauty that’s as intense as it is unique. When viewed at a distance it appears merely black. But when light scatters over its surfaces, a dark navy hue quickly reveals itself. It is at once radiance and discretion, and it heralds a world of new possibilities for the Chanel J12.

To get things started for Watches and Wonders 2025, the Chanel J12 Bleu presents itself across two distinct selections. First is the Haute Horlogerie range and then the Core Accessible range, with the latter designed for daily wear and the former, an expression of the Chanel Watchmaking Studio’s loftiest dreams.

Chanel J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon Watch

Let’s delve straight into the haute horlogerie end of the spectrum. The J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon Watch epitomizes Chanel’s fine watchmaking philosophy where technicity is at the service of design. Cased in 38mm matte blue ceramic with an elegant black-coated steel trim, the Calibre 5 tourbillon movement sits partially exposed through the dial.

Matte blue ceramic and baguette-cut blue sapphires, with the Calibre 5 Flying Tourbillon movement

Everywhere else is cloaked in muted dark blue tones. Even those 34 blue sapphires on the bezel are baguette cut to emphasize on color rather than sparkle. While unflappably stylish, this has the added effect of concentrating all the light and attention on that single solitare diamond set on the tourbillon carriage.

Tech Specs

Movement: Manual-winding Caliber 5 tourbillon set with one diamond; 42-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; flying tourbillon
Case: 38mm; matte blue highly resistant ceramic and steel with black coating, bezel set with 34 baguette-cut blue sapphires; water resistant to 50m
Dial: Openworked matte blue
Strap: Matte blue highly resistant ceramic bracelet with polished bevels and steel with black coating triple-folding buckle
Availability: 55-piece limited edition
Price EUR 230,000

Chanel J12 Bleu X-Ray Watch

While ceramic is undoubtedly the go-to material for Chanel, the maison does occasionally reach for transparent or tinted sapphire crystal. The result? An altogether see-through timepiece called the J12 X-Ray which celebrates the beauty of extreme colorlessness. Since then, later references have arrived that play with the juxtaposition of saturated hues and the complete absence of color.

First there was the X-Ray Rainbow. Last year there was the J12 X-Ray Pink. This year Chanel presents the J12 Bleu X-Ray Watch as its latest tribute to transparency. Inspiration came from the delicate blues of the sky and the sea on a clear day.

The Chanel Watch Manufacture spent over 1,600 hours sculpting the case and bracelet from a single block of synthetic sapphire. Its bezel and links are done in black-coated white gold and the watch is further set with 196 natural blue sapphires on the bezel, bracelet and hour markers.

J12 Bleu X-Ray with black-coated white gold links and bezel

Like the earlier models, the J12 Bleu X-Ray Watch fully exposes the underlying Calibre 3.1 which uses colorless sapphire for its plate and bridges. So all the remaining gear wheels appear to float in mid-air, as do the blue sapphire hour markers set directly onto a colorless sapphire disc.

Tech Specs:

Movement: Manual-winding Caliber 3.1 with sapphire crystal plates and bridges; 55-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes
Case: 38mm; blue sapphire crystal and black-coated 18K white gold; water resistant to 30m
Dial: Transparent sapphire crystal
Strap: Blue sapphire crystal and black-coated 18K white gold bracelet set with 138 baguette-cut blue sapphires (~10.15 carats) and black-coated 18K white gold triple-folding buckle
Availability: Numbered 12-piece limited edition
Price Upon request

Chanel J12 Bleu Sapphires

The blue-and-bluer theme continues with a trio of J12 Bleu Sapphires Watches in a selection of different sizes. Reflecting the playful spirit of the maison, the Chanel Watch Creation Studio pairs the 42mm model up with the 28mm one. Style savvy couples with a love for Chanel jackets and handbags, this is totally a maxi-meets-mini look you can definitely pull off.

J12 Bleu in matte blue ceramic with blue sapphires

Once again we have matte blue ceramic set with baguette-cut natural blue sapphires. The gemstones are paved all around the bezel and occupy the central link on the bracelet. More than 110 hours of gem-setting were required to embellish these two J12 cases, with 170 baguette-cut sapphires for the 42mm and 196 for the 28mm.

While the 42mm is equipped with the COSC-certified Kenissi-manufactured Calibre 12.1 movement, the 28mm runs on quartz. But look on the bright side. The smaller dimensions of the latter means you could stack on as many Coco Crush bracelets as you want. Way to exploit the scratchproof qualities of high-tech ceramic right?

Tech Specs: J12 Bleu Sapphires 42mm

Movement: Self-winding COSC-certified Caliber 12.1; 70-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Case: 42mm; matte blue highly resistant ceramic and black-coated steel, bezel set with 48 baguette-cut blue sapphires, crown set with brilliant-cut diamond; water resistant to 50m
Dial: Matte blue varnished set with 12 baguette-cut blue sapphires 
Strap: Matte blue highly resistant ceramic and black-coated steel set with 110 baguette-cut blue sapphires and black-coated steel triple-folding buckle
Availability: 12-piece limited edition
Price EUR 680,000

Tech Specs: J12 Bleu Sapphires 28mm

Movement: High-precision quartz movement
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Case: 28mm; matte blue highly resistant ceramic and black-coated steel, bezel set with 46 baguette-cut blue sapphires, crown set with brilliant-cut diamond; water resistant to 30m
Dial: Matte blue varnished set with 12 baguette-cut blue sapphires 
Strap: Matte blue highly resistant ceramic and black-coated steel set with 138 baguette-cut blue sapphires and black-coated steel triple-folding buckle
Availability: 12-piece limited edition
Price EUR 300,000

J12 Bleu Sapphires 38mm with date

Next, a third model brings the charm, perfectly sized at 38mm. And this time, baguette-cut blue sapphires only around the bezel. Like the 42mm, it runs on the COSC-certified Calibre 12.1 manufactured for Chanel by Kenissi. Visible through the sapphire back, the entire movement is dressed in black to match the aesthetics of the watch.

Tech Specs: J12 Bleu Sapphires 38mm

Movement: Self-winding COSC-certified Caliber 12.1; 70-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Case: 38mm; matte blue highly resistant ceramic and black-coated steel, bezel set with 46 baguette-cut blue sapphires, crown set with brilliant-cut diamond; water resistant to 50m
Dial: Matte blue varnished set with 12 baguette-cut blue sapphires
Strap: Matte blue highly resistant ceramic and black-coated steel set; black-coated steel triple-folding buckle
Availability: 100-piece limited edition
Price EUR 155,000

Chanel J12 Bleu

Creativity at the Chanel Watch Creation Studio knows no bounds. High-tech ceramic can be perceived and treated just like the traditional noble metals.

“In the course of 25 years, Chanel has elevated ceramic to the level of a precious material,” says Chastaingt. “The art of ceramic is undeniably Chanel watchmaking and our outstanding savoir-faire: it is an inspiring material that, thanks to the genius of our engineers, offers a vast creative playing field.”

That was how Chanel came up with the baguette motif for the J12 bezels. Irrefutably elegant and quietly understated, it now adorns the J12 Bleu collection in 38mm and 33mm.

Designed for everyday wear, these four limited edition references make great wardrobe staples for anyone who loves dressing in monochromatic hues. All of them mechanical, the 38mm models are powered by Kenissi Calibre 12.1 and the 33mm models, Calibre 12.2.

Further distinguishing the pieces are the options for gem-setting. Fancy the baguette-cut blue sapphire indexes? Pick from the 38mm or 33mm sizes. Prefer brilliant diamond indexes? There is a 33mm perfect for you. Do not want any diamonds at all? Go for the 38mm and gain a date window at 4.30.

Tech Specs: J12 Bleu 38mm Calibre 12.1

Movement: Self-winding COSC-certified Caliber 12.1; 70-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Case: 38mm; matte blue highly resistant ceramic and black-coated steel, ceramic bezel with baguette motif, black coated steel screw-down crown with ceramic cabochon; water resistant to 50m
Dial: Matte blue varnished set with 12 baguette-cut blue sapphires or black varnished numerals
Strap: Matte blue highly resistant ceramic and black-coated steel set; black-coated steel triple-folding buckle
Price EUR 25,500 (sapphire indexes) EUR 11,000 (black varnished numerals)

Tech Specs: J12 Bleu 33mm Calibre 12.2

Movement: Self-winding COSC-certified Caliber 12.2; 50-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Case: 33mm; matte blue highly resistant ceramic and black-coated steel, ceramic bezel with baguette motif, black coated steel screw-down crown with ceramic cabochon; water resistant to 50m
Dial: Matte blue varnished set with 12 baguette-cut blue sapphires or 12 brilliant-cut diamonds
Strap: Matte blue highly resistant ceramic and black-coated steel set; black-coated steel triple-folding buckle
Price EUR 24,500 (sapphire indexes) EUR 12,400 (diamond indexes)