It’s been two months since the curtain fell on Watches & Wonders, but its impact still lingers. What stands out, in hindsight, is how many genuinely interesting watches were introduced – a surprise, given the early sentiment that it would be a quiet year. Since then, our aim has been simple: to uncover these hidden gems one at a time, go hands-on with the most compelling pieces, and share them with you.

One clear trend from the fair was the return of the dress watch. Lange gave us the beautifully restrained 34 mm 1815; Patek stirred emotions with its platinum-and-salmon Calatrava; Rolex went bold with the 1908 Settimo in solid gold; and Jaeger-LeCoultre amazed with the Reverso “Shahnameh”, a poetic work of guilloché and enamel.

But beyond the headlines were watches that didn’t shout. Refined and impressive nonetheless, they were perhaps eclipsed by the usual heavy hitters. Among them is the Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV, the fourth generation of the brand’s 9-day power reserve dress watch, first launched in 2000.

This latest edition might just be the spirited expression of a classic gentleman’s watch. Like a vintage sports car that’s both elegant and exhilarating, it’s beautifully balanced, technically impressive, and perhaps the most seductive dress watch we’ve encountered this year.

Platinum and delicious ice blue. (Image: Revolution ©)

Home run for the silver jubilee

The L.U.C family by Chopard has long been a legendary line of watches, known for top-tier design and construction. The range stretches from the well-loved 1860, a pure time-only automatic with a micro-rotor, to more unconventional pieces like the Quattro Spirit with its jumping hour display. There are also several technically ambitious watches in the line-up, including the minute repeater with sapphire gongs.

Somewhere in between sits the L.U.C Quattro. Over the years, it has tended to attract less attention than its siblings, perhaps because it is neither as purist as the time-only models nor as exciting as the high complications. Yet the Quattro has a quiet appeal of its own. Its signature features include a co-axial small seconds and a pointer date at six o’clock, paired with a power reserve indicator at twelve for a symmetrical, balanced layout. More than just a design element, it marks the countdown of an impressive nine days of running time.

Surprisingly, this excellent design has been around all along, for 25 years to be exact. Its story begins when the team at Chopard was looking for a way to extend the power reserve of the finely constructed L.U.C 96.01 movement. That led them to remove the automatic winding system and replace it with a series of manually wound barrels. The result was the Quattro, equipped with four barrels and introduced in 2000.

The view from behind. (Image: Revolution ©)

Since then, there have been three iterations. The original, with its sector-inspired layout and guilloché finish, remains difficult to surpass. The later versions, Mark II and Mark III, may not have offered the same visual harmony at first glance, but they brought something different. Their unconventional design feel honest and unfiltered, and for some collectors, that gives them a distinct appeal.

So what’s new in the Mark IV? For the first time, the power reserve indicator has been moved to the back of the watch. This single change opens up the dial, making it feel more spacious and giving it a cleaner appearance. Gone is the sector-style layout of the Mark I, along with the Roman and Arabic numerals seen in the Mark II and III. What remains is a pared-back dial – so minimal that, in less careful hands, it might risk feeling empty or underwhelming.

Notice the contrasting texture on the outer chapter ring of the main dial, and the two-tone finish on the sub-dial. (Image: Revolution ©)

But Chopard certainly knows how to strike a balance. To give the dial presence without clutter, the brand has introduced a frosted or hammered surface. The effect is subtle but striking. The texture catches the light with a soft shimmer, adding depth and interest without breaking the minimalist spirit. It is a smart solution that feels minimal without being sterile.

Perhaps even more effective than the texture is the choice of colour. The rose gold model comes with a deep blue dial, while the platinum version is paired with an icy, silvery blue. Both colourways are immediately appealing, and each is rendered in a shade that feels timeless, even if the palette happens to be in fashion at the moment.

Rosy and blue, beautifully paired. (Image: Revolution ©)

The rest of the dial pays tribute to the original Mark I, with familiar herringbone-style hour markers and faceted dauphine hands. I’m especially glad to see the return of the lollipop counterweight on the small seconds. It’s a small detail that brings a touch of liveliness to the otherwise formal dial.

The markers are instantly recognizable as a Chopard signature. They are slim, multi-faceted, and just a touch more thoughtful than most. Applied markers are common in dress watches – Vacheron uses them, and so does Patek – but Chopard’s take feels more sculptural. Each one features two pointed tips and three angled surfaces, setting them apart from the more typical rectangular baton-style indices. It’s like the difference between the raised tail light on a vintage car, for example the Volvo Amazon, and the flush-mounted lights on more ordinary designs.

And to top it all off, the case is sized just right: 39 millimetres wide and 10.4 millimetres tall, which is impressive considering it delivers a nine-day power reserve. It is a demonstration of good design.

If you try to describe the case design on paper, it might sound simple, even generic. But in person, it’s instantly recognisable as an L.U.C case. There’s something about the proportions and detailing that makes it memorable.

The little bee tucked between the lugs signals that this is a platinum case from Chopard. (Image: Revolution ©)

One detail I particularly appreciate is the thin step just below the domed bezel, creating a double-stepped profile that adds depth and definition. That same attention to form continues along the case flanks, where a clean break between the middle and the lugs shows they were formed and finished separately and then soldered together.

There is also something new, a small change that has been missing for the past 25 years: the crown. It is now diamond-shaped and gently tapers toward the case. It looks more refined and feels better in the hand. You can’t help but wonder why it took this long to arrive.

The stepped bezel is faintly visible in photos due to reflections, but clearly noticeable in person. (Image: Revolution ©)

Four-wheel drive in watchmaking

You may be wondering what Quattro means in the name. In Italian, it simply means “four.” And if you’re familiar with Audi, you’ll recognise it as the term the brand uses for its all-wheel drive system. In this case, Quattro refers to something equally technical: the watch’s four mainspring barrels.

While multiple barrels aren’t unheard of in watchmaking, most watches make do with two. Four is rare, and the way Chopard has arranged them is even more unusual. The barrels are stacked in pairs, forming two vertical “towers” that sit side by side. Each barrel takes turns unwinding in sequence, delivering just over two days of power. Together, they keep the movement running for an impressive nine days.

This setup is known as a series arrangement. It doesn’t increase the torque going to the balance wheel. Instead, it extends the duration of the power supply. That matters, because a single oversized barrel would cause a large drop in torque as it unwinds, which would affect timekeeping. By dividing the load across four barrels, Chopard achieves long autonomy without compromising stability. The movement is even certified by COSC for chronometric precision.

A large, well-proportioned movement that nearly fills the caseback is pleasing to the eye. (Image: Revolution ©)

But fitting four barrels into a single movement takes up considerable space. Much of the calibre is now dominated by the large plate covering the barrels, which results in a bridge layout that is flatter and less visually nuanced than the micro-rotor L.U.C 96.01 it’s based on. It’s a trade-off, but a sensible one. In this Mark IV iteration, the caseback has become a bit more engaging, thanks to the relocation of the power reserve indicator.

Even with the simplified architecture, the finishing holds up beautifully. No part of the movement feels neglected, even beneath the surface. The escape wheel bridge, nearly hidden under the balance, still has polished countersinks for its screws. The visible bridges are finished to a high standard with rounded and polished bevels and finely grained surfaces. One particular highlight is the regulator, which is entirely black polished and delicately bevelled along its outline. It’s no wonder this movement bears the Geneva Seal.

Clean, precise, and thorough, the movement is finished with a clever mix of hand and machine work. (Image: © Revolution)

It’s pleasing to see that every visible detail has been carefully attended to, even beneath the surface, and a few black-polished components help elevate the shine of the movement. (Image: © Revolution)

Concluding thoughts

So there’s that. The new L.U.C Quattro Mark IV can be dangerously seductive, despite its simple and restrained appearance. It’s also one of the few dress watches today that manages to combine elegance with a dashing character – a natural result of thoughtful design and genuine technical substance.

Somehow, it brings to mind the 1970s Alfa Romeo 2000 GT Veloce, a car that looks every bit the gentleman with its clean lines, yet remains undeniably attractive and reveals an exhilarating charm once in motion. Imagine driving it down a country road as sunlight hits and the dial glints back at you. Oh, life.

Spotted on the street, and it hasn’t left my mind since I started writing about this watch. (Photo by the author)

Tech Specs: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV

Reference: 161954-9001 (platinum); 161954-5001 (rose gold)
Movement: L.U.C 98.09-L; manual winding; 9-day power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and power reserve indicator
Case: 39 mm x 10.4 mm; platinum or 18k rose gold; water resistant to 30 m
Strap: Brown alligator with pin buckle and complementary grey calfskin strap (platinum); grey alligator with pin buckle and complementary brown calfskin (rose gold)
Availability: At Chopard boutiques and retailers
Limited edition: No
Price: USD 50,300 (platinum); USD 40,400 (rose gold)