I will be the first to admit a deep desire for the quirky designs of the watch world and Japanese craftsmanship even more. I have also been enjoying the perhaps fleeting trend of the Geezer Watch in the face of viral Pateks and Rolex dominance because, to me, different is good. And when it comes with a side order of supreme comfort and sleek small sizes, it’s all the better. But my contrarian nature doesn’t stop me from having a truckload of respect for Gerald Genta.

He might have penned thousands of watches as a designer, but not all of them were as proportionate as the Royal Oak or Nautilus. Once in a while, though, something bearing the GG signature comes up that stands out in a sea of sports watches. As we saw in Felix Scholz’s story last year, he also worked for Seiko’s über luxury brand Credor. Now, I have had a couple of neo-vintage Credor sports watches myself (which I miss), and I can attest to the Swiss-grail-beating quality of each single steel bracelet link, but Genta’s quirky touch hit me like a ton of bricks. 

The Credor Locomotive released last year in a limited edition of 300 would not have been to everyone’s taste. But with its odd hexagonal design, exposed tool-like bolts and dainty bracelet end link, it looked like nothing else. From seeing the original silver-on-black card sketch and production model, it stays true to its seventies form. Still, it is somehow tauter, more compact, and visibly exquisite in its tolerances. The 2024 version included a dial reminding us of the iris effect of a certain Chopard, a similarity easily overshadowed by its taut, alien form.

The specifications of this new production version are the same, with a size that puts it on many people’s Goldilocks spectrum. Looking at the watch, we recognise last year’s limited edition with its 38.8mm high-intensity titanium case that is a short 41.7mm long, with a single central end link fixing the bracelet. But despite its dressy size and 8.9mm thickness, it is a bonafide sports watch with a 100m depth rating. This hexagonal case has the classic Genta touch of a broad, brushed bezel, with juxtaposed, rather utilitarian hex-socket bezel screws and a charming screw-down crown at 4 o’clock echoing the socket design. 

Looking at the design, the bracelet looks quite similar to the tight-toleranced number fitted to the Royal Oak but oddly wide for the case. But having tried the 2024 version on it, it somehow works remarkably well, with the hexagonal details tying it all together. Unsurprisingly, the beautifully finished case showcases the obsessive skill and craftsmanship of the Credor watchmakers. 

The choice of high-intensity titanium for the limited edition was a cool move, bringing the Locomotive into our time. The safe move might have been to opt for regular steel, but the feather-light 78-gram weight has stayed for this, the regular production model. And let’s face it, no brand like Grand Seiko and its Credor sibling makes a sharper polish and brush on the admittedly hard-to-work titanium.

What is brand new, however, is the dial, where Credor has gone full immersion into this new world of hexagons. The deep green dial comes across as two shades of forest green, delightfully rendered in a hexagonal pattern with the striated pattern with shapes that alternate in direction. With this curated dial design, the new Credor Locomotive will inhabit a select world of shapeshifters where the dial will appear almost black in low-light scenarios and sparkle in the sun. Staying true to its original, it includes a framed date window at 3, and soft baton hands with a clear Genta line, matching the indices to a tee, in perfect proportional balance with the dial size.

Hidden behind a solid titanium case back, you will find the recently developed thin CR01 caliber from last year, with a nice gilt finish and an everyday 28,800vph and a 45-hour power reserve. The accuracy of the movement doesn’t come across as spectacular with its modest +15/-10 secs per day, but knowing the Seiko Corporation, this will perform markedly better in practice. But the new Credor Locomotive is not about the movement, it is about Seiko showing us a new, bolder side to its exquisite catalogue. And for me, the Credor Locomotive is, besides being an achingly cool, desirable combo of Genta charm and Japanese craft, a sign of great things to come.

Explore the watch on Credor’s website.

Tech Specs: Credor Locomotive GCCR997

Movement: Self-winding Caliber CR01; 45-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; central seconds; date
Case: 38.8mm × 8.9mm; titanium; water-resistant to 100m
Dial: Hexagonal pattern in green
Strap: Titanium bracelet with three-fold clasp and push-button release
Price: € 14,500