For Geneva Watch Days 2025, Gerald Charles returns to its roots in integrated-bracelet sports watches. This year, the brand revives one of founder Gérald Genta’s very last designs, the Masterlink Gem-Set.

Originally commissioned by a royal family in Sarawak, Malaysia, the watch featured not only an asymmetrical case but also an unusually asymmetrical bracelet, with flat links on the 12 o’clock side and curved links on the 6 o’clock side to match the case. The original was fully set with diamonds and rubies. Today, that style returns with fewer diamonds but striking options in blue or red sapphires, or tsavorite.

What makes the latest watch unique is its full stainless steel construction, with the sole exception of the white-gold bezel, which is gem-set. The lavish use of gemstones on a stainless steel watch is unusual and adds to its appeal.

The dial, too, receives the gem-set treatment with applied hour markers in the same stones as the bezel. More intriguingly, it is built on two layers, with vertical cut-outs that create visual depth.

The proportions of the watch are also worth highlighting. At just 38 mm across and 7.99 mm thick, it is flat, wide, and satisfyingly well-sized for a luxury sports watch. This contrasts with many integrated-bracelet watches that are weighed down by a thick aspect ratio, which compromises their elegance.

At the heart of the Masterlink Gem-Set is a refined micro-rotor movement produced by Vaucher, the sister company of Parmigiani Fleurier. It is based on the VMF 5400 — the same calibre that powers the Parmigiani Tonda PF — but with bridges and finishing customized exclusively for Gerald Charles.

Tech Specs: Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem-Set

Reference: ML1.0-SSPS-WG31-18GS-SBCL / ML1.0-SSPS-WG32-18GS-SBCL / ML1.0-SSPS-WG43-18GS-SBCL
Movement: Self-winding Swiss Manufacture 1.0 caliber; 50-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: 38mm × 7.99 mm; stainless steel with 18K white gold bezel; water-resistant to 100m
Dial: Silver with vertical sunburst finish and applied vertical stripes; 13 blue sapphires / red sapphires / tsavorites hours indexes
Strap: Steel bracelet
Limited edition: 10 pieces in each colour
Price: Upon request