With its sleek sculptural lines and distinctive shape, the Octo Finissimo case has long been the ideal canvas and inspiration for a small handful of very special editions. Unlike the usual cross-brand or celebrity-led collabs often seen in the watch industry, these editions blur the line between sculpture and watch, art and horology. We are talking, of course, about Bvlgari’s collaboration with Japanese architects Tadao Ando and Kazuyo Sejima, amongst others. 

Ando’s first collab with Bvlgari in 2019 was a stunning, mesmerizing play on a spiral motif that began at the off-centered seconds hand and rippled outward to the rest of the dial on a titanium Octo Finissimo Automatic. Printed in black lacquer on the titanium dial, the ripples echoed the curves of the round bezel, even as they were juxtaposed against the strong, faceted lines of the octagonal flange and case. Produced in just 200 pieces and available only in Japan, predictably, it sold out at breakneck speed.

Bvlgari’s collaboration with Japanese architect Tadao Ando resulted in some of the most stunning limited edition watches in the Octo Finissimo collection

The next Ando collab came in 2021 in a black ceramic iteration of the Octo Finissimo Automatic. It wore an indigo blue lacquered dial with laser-engraved spirals similar to that of its predecessor, and a crescent moon in shimmering yellow gold to reiterate the passing of time. Fellow Japanese architect Sejima continued the conversation initiated by Ando with her “architecture of reflection,” here made literal with a reflective polished case and bracelet, and a mirrored dial embellished with dot motifs. Not surprisingly, the ethereal appeal of the watch won over Bvlgari fans, and the 360-piece edition, too, sold out quickly. 

“The idea of using the Octo as a canvas for artistic expression has been at the heart of this watch since its creation,” says Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bvlgari’s Product Creation Executive Director.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Sejima released in 2022

“This concept, which combines a complex movement with an aesthetic never explored before, is based on a constant desire to reinvent the watch through various combinations, collaborations and the involvement of guest personalities,” he explains. 

Lee Ufan Edition: titanium, black mirror dials, and hand etching

The latest artist to bring his vision to the Octo Finissimo is Korean-born, Japan-based painter and sculptor Lee Ufan. One of Lee’s key themes and recurrent motifs is that of the contrast between a rock and a mirror, the finite limitations of one versus the infinite possibilities of the other. This is subtly expressed in the collaboration design, which was the result of rich exchanges and conversations between the artist and Stigliani.

Here, the Octo Finissimo Automatic in titanium doubles up as the blank canvas. On it, a black mirror dial and black skeletonized hands are held in taut tension against the stainless steel, sunray-polished bezel and titanium case body and bracelet, each bearing a mesmerizing display of irregular etches, like a cloak of patina earned over time. These marks are the results of carefully filing each piece by hand, then adding a special titanium surface treatment. As a result, every piece is unique. 

“This watch contrasts sharply with the Sejima collaboration, which is entirely reflective,” Stigliani says. “This time, it is a raw watch that represents the art of Lee Ufan.”

Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani (left), Bvlgari’s Product Creation Executive Director, and artist Lee Ufan (right)

He adds, “I was particularly surprised by the adaptability of this unique design. Each modification changes the identity of the watch and its target audience. The appearance is transformed.”

The Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan × Bvlgari is powered by the ultra-thin BVL 138 in-house caliber with platinum micro-rotor, which measures just 2.23mm thin while wielding an impressive 60-hour power reserve. As with its predecessors, the caseback is transparent, with the artist’s handwritten signature on each of the 150 pieces in the limited edition. 

Tech Specs: Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan × Bvlgari

Reference: 104132
Movement: Self-winding Caliber BVL 138; 60-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; small seconds
Case: 40mm × 5.5mm; titanium, with stainless steel, sunray-polished bezel and sapphire crystal caseback featuring Lee Ufan’s handwritten signature; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: Mirroring effect
Strap: Hand-filed titanium bracelet with integrated folding clasp
Price: USD 19,900
Availability: Limited edition of 150 pieces